Frequently Asked Questions

Granite is an igneous rock that is formed deep within the mantle of the earth from molten lava. It is composed of elements of quartz, mica and feldspar in varying amounts. It is naturally hard, stain resistant and scorch resistant. The material is quarried in large blocks then sliced into slabs. The slabs are then polished and some of the slabs surfaces are filled with a resin to smooth out the natural pits and fissures that occur. Slabs come in two varieties referred to as either speckled or flow patterns. These refer to the look of the material.Speckled materials have a more uniform look in terms of color and pattern while flow materials have a more varied appearance in terms of color and pattern.

Marble and its cousins, onyx, travertine, limestone and Jerusalem stone, is a sedimentary rock. This is formed under pressure by a combination of materials such as silt, plant deterius, animal skeletons and sea shells that accumulate and solidify under bodies of water over millions and millions of years. Its main component is calcium which is much softer than the materials found in granite. It is quarried and cut in much the same way as granite. It is graded on a scale from A to D which does not refer to its rarity, but rather to its content or lack of content of natural fissures and veining. The group A has the least amount of fissures while group D has the most. Group C and D marbles will generally be reinforced on the back of the slab with a fiberglass mesh screen embedded in a coat of resin. This gives the slab greater structural integrity than it would otherwise possess. During the fabrication process, many marble pieces are further reinforced with metal rods to give them added strength.

Silestone is a natural quartz product. Quartz is the hardest non gem mineral in the world. Silestone is 3 times harder than granite and has four times the flexural strength. It is made by combining quartz crystals, dyes and resins to achieve a material that exhibits pure brilliance. The material has the highest degree of stain, heat and scratch resistance available in any countertop in the world. Silestone is the only countertop in the world available with Microban anti microbial product protection. The surface is never sealed so it never needs resealing.

Both granite and marble are somewhat porous by nature meaning they have the propensity to absorb liquids which may lead to staining or discoloration if not properly sealed and maintained. Silestone is completely non porous meaning that it will not absorb liquids and therefore is naturally resistant to staining and discoloration. When we install your granite or marble countertop, the last step we take is to install a liquid sealant that is absorbed into your countertop and provides a barrier against liquid absorption much as a coat of wax applied to your cars finish does.

Depending on how heavily your countertops are used and which products are used to maintain them, this sealant can either be washed out or enhanced. Frequent use of common household cleaners will tend to wash out the sealant while use of our 3 in 1 cleaner, polisher and protector will enhance the stain barrier. If you notice that liquids are being easily absorbed into your countertop, wipe them off immediately and call us to schedule a service call to apply a new coat of sealant.

Placing a very hot object directly on top of a cold surface results in a condition referred to as thermal shock. Imagine what happens to a glass of ice cubes when you pour boiling water into it. Under most conditions found in the kitchen, your countertops will be fine if you take a hot pan off the stove or a casserole out of the oven and place it on them. However there have been instances of countertops cracking when the conditions are just right. For this reason we always recommend the usage of a trivet or thermal pad between the pot and countertop. Furthermore there have been instances of cracking when counters are exposed to prolonged periods of low heat such as when cooking with a crock pot. We recommend placing a trivet or thermal pad between your crock pot and countertop.

Under normal household conditions this is not a concern. There have been instances of houses shifting and settling where countertops have cracked.

In short, yes! It is necessary to put seams in your countertops for a variety of reasons such as the layout of your project relative to the size of the slab, the access to the jobsite and the work area, the ability to physically carry the material due to its weight, and the necessity to minimize waste in the fabrication process in order to deliver the product to you at a reasonable price. The fabricator always reserves the right to determine the placement of the seams based on the above considerations. When we come out to make a template of your project we will discuss seam placement with you. Also in certain materials seams will be more visible than in other materials. Variations in color and pattern in certain granites and marbles will make seams appear more obvious than other materials such as Silestone.

Granite and Silestone are produced in various thicknesses of 1cm, 2cm and 3cm. These correspond roughly to 3/8" and 1 1/4". In the mid atlantic market 3cm material is the accepted standard. Other thicknesses are available by special order.

Repairs can be made using a variety of techniques involving ground up chips, resin or polymer fillers, wet sanding with various grit polishers, and bonding with two stage adhesives. In most cases you will be able to find the repaired area however it will be a marked improvement over the original damage.

Every project differs in some respect. Therefore we quote individual jobs by a proposal. The following information will need to be provided in order to obtain a proposal: a drawing showing the dimensions of the project, the color of the material chosen, the edge profile chosen, the type and height of backsplash chosen, the number and types of cutouts for sinks, stoves or other appliances, the radius of any corners, and any dimensions of diagonal base cabinets. Once we have the information we will provide you with a quote within 48 hours. This free quote is an estimate only and is subject to change based on the actual measurements we take at the time of template.

Granites differ in their texture but they all have similar properties such as their resistance to the invasive action of most substances found in the house. Unlike marble and limestone, granite is the least affected by acids or alcohol. It shouldn't be damaged from standing hot utensils on it or by sharp knives (having said that, the new fusion edge knives claim to be able to cut anything)

All stones, due to their granular construction, are porous to a greater or lesser extent and most granites fall into the latter category. To reduce the slight ability of granite to absorb liquids we treat the surface with a proprietary sealer that penetrates the surface and fills the microscopic voids between the crystals. This process is first done in the factory at the completion of manufacture and again when installed. However, you should be aware that with the lighter colored granites you may experience slight darkening of the stone in areas where water has been allowed to stand, but this should fade away as it dries out. Beetroot, wine and cooking oil, particularly when hot may cause a stain on your marble or granite work top, and you should always clean this up immediately with kitchen roll.

Marble and Limestone are susceptible to the aggressive action of acids and alcohol. Care should be taken to remove spillages of fruit juice, particularly lemon, wine and vinegar, beetroot etc. e.g. the residue of red wine on the base of wineglasses will leave its mark. Nail varnish and any other solvent or oil based products will stain if not wiped up immediately.

Stainless steel sinks are made from nickel bearing stainless steel in various gauges; the lower the gauge number, the thicker the stainless steel. 22 gauge is bare minimum - builder quality. During the manufacturing process, stainless steel sinks are "stamped" into shape, stretching the material, and corners can be very thin. For non-commercial, every day use a minimum of 20 gauge is recommended, and preferably 18 gauge for best overall use and durability.

Clean regularly with a mild detergent solution and/or clean water applied with a soft cloth or sponge. Rinse and towel dry after every use to prevent mineral deposits from building up on the surface of the sink. Deep clean once a week with an approved cleanser (be sure to rub in the direction of the finish lines) and a soft cloth or sponge rather than an occasional aggresive single cleaning. Cleaners should state approved or suitable for stainless steel.

As with most metallic surfaces your stainless steel sink will get scratches. These are merely usage scratches and over time will blend in with the overall finish of your sink. However there are steps that can be taken to reduce the appearance of scratches. Use a nylon pad with an iron free abrasive polishing compound. Follow in the direction of the original polish lines to blend out the scratch in a small area. Be cautious not to overdo the process, as a too aggressive procedure will result in a bright spot.

The quality of water can affect your sink's appearance. If your water has high iron content, a brown surface stain can form on the sink giving the appearance of rust. Additionally, in areas with a high concentration of mineral, or with over-softened water, a white film may develop on the sink. Regular routine cleaning can usually prevent lime scale deposits from hard water. Do not allow excessive build up before treating. Soaking in a 25% vinegar solution can treat hard water spots. Periodically rub the sink with a synthetic scouring page. Then rinse and towel dry.

If you develop rust marks due to a presence of or contact with ferrous (iron containing) materials, swab with a sponge wetted with a dilute solution of (10-15%) nitric acid (HNO3) and follow with a routine cleaning. Avoid prolonged contact of ferrous materials (i.e. cast iron pans) with stainless steel.

Today, chlorides are found in most soap, detergents, bleaches and cleansers; chlorides can be aggressive to stainless steel. However, chlorides are very water soluable. Therefore, thorough rinsing of your sink after each use to remove any chloride residue and a weekly scouring is all that is required to keep your sink looking bright and shiny. If chlorides are left on the sink too long they can cause surface pitting.

Heavy salt concetration or foods containing high levels of salt should not be allowed to dry on the sink surface. Rince your sink thoroughly after contact with these types of foods.

Your sink is designed to serve as many things, but should not be used as a cutting board or chopping block. This type of use will lead to deep scratches in the sink finish and will dull your knives.

* Do not use coarse abrasive powders, metallic scourers such as steel wool or brushes with metal bristles.
* Do not use silver cleaner.
* Do not leave wet sponges, cloths, cleaning pads, rubber mats or dishpans in the sink. This can lead to surface rust or possible pitting. Please remove rubber mats and dishpans after each use.
* Do not leave standing solutions of chlorine bleach and water in the sink for extended periods of time.
* Always rince the sink after using such solutions.
* Do not allow liquid soap or other cleansers to dry on the surface of the sink.
* Do run cold water when pouring boiling water into sinks to try to minimize temperature shock. However, with stainless it isn't as important to remember to do so as it is with other materials.
* Do not scour the sink across the satin finish lines. Scouring across the satin finish lines can damage the original sink finish. Always scour in the direction of the finish.
* Do not leave standing solutions of chlorine bleach and water in the sink for extended periods of time.